Restaurant from another time- Gaehwagi Yojeong (개화기요정) in Seoul

Gaehwagi Yojeong (개화기요정) is an izakaya/restaurant located in Hapjeong, Seoul, featuring a retro style reminiscent of Japan in the 70s/80s and giving of Ghibli’s “Spirited Away” vibes. Situated in the heart of Seoul between Hapjeong and Hongdae, this multi-story establishment immerses visitors in a world with wooden interiors and lanterns, evoking memories of the film ‘Spirited Away.’ It is an absolute must-visit!

*What is an Izakaya (居酒屋)?
An Izakaya is a Japanese pub, usually open late, offering various alcoholic beverages along with a variety of dishes. The term is composed of the Chinese characters for “be” 居, “alcohol” 酒, and “house, shop” 屋. Izakayas often resemble small bars where patrons sit at a counter and directly order drinks and small dishes from the chef, often based on the daily menu or recommendations. However, this isn’t always the case. Recently, Izakayas have also become a trend in Korea, where they often lean more towards being a restaurant with a bar atmosphere and a fixed menu.

Gaehwagi Yojeong (개화기요정) is practically hard to miss with its size and distinctive style when you turn into the right street. However, Hapjeong and Hongdae are bustling with bars and restaurants, and the unique name makes it challenging for foreigners to find through online searches. This keeps the izakaya as a hidden gem among foreigners.

The izakaya is always busy, but with a total of four floors, there are almost always available tables. However, the upper floors open later in the evening. Additionally, there are not only regular tables but also tatami rooms where you sit on cushions around a low table (unfortunately, I didn’t take a picture of that).

The menu is currently only in Korean, but Papago as a translator can be helpful. Moreover, the menu is so diverse that it can be enjoyable to order various items (even more or less blindly)! They offer sashimi, fish dishes, meat dishes, fried items (tempura, karage, etc.), hot pots (‘Nabe’ 鍋), and in addition to Japanese dishes, several Korean options as well.

In comparison to other restaurants in Korea, where a meal often costs no more than 5-10 EUR/USD, this restaurant, with prices ranging from approximately 10,000-25,000 won (about 7-18 EUR/USD), is a bit more expensive. However, by European (and I assume American) standards, it is not very expensive.

If needed, and in case this blog is read by more people one day, I’m also happy to translate the menu 🙂

Not only is the food menu extensive, but the drink menu is also extensive. In addition to beers (Cass, Terra, Kelly, draft, etc.), various highball options (Suntory, blue lemon, pink peach), and soju varieties (common brands like Jamisul, etc., and fruit soju with blueberry, pineapple, and more), there is also a wide selection of Japanese sake.

Meanwhile, I’ve been to Gaehwagi Yojeong (개화기요정) with about 10 different friends and family members (and Mr. Sogumbbang, of course), and everyone was thrilled. (Except for one French friend who didn’t like the retro style. He said it looked like his grandmother’s poorly repaired house 😂😂. Also, I have to agree with him that the tables can be a bit sticky sometimes. This happens in some places because the tables are often cleaned with soju. But that doesn’t mean they are dirty. By the way, he still enjoyed the food, especially the chicken in the photo below. 🍗)

Ordering is done, as in many other Korean restaurants, by pressing a table bell. Usually, the staff is quite busy, and so far, I haven’t caught anyone who spoke English. Still, I would recommend not letting that discourage you!! (After all, traveling is always an adventure, isn’t it?)

By the way, I not only love the salmon sashimi but also the cheese-covered potatoes with Myeongnan 명란, also known as Mentaiko 明太子 in Japanese. These are fish eggs, which might sound a bit strange to some, but taste quite amazing (I think it has a savory flavor that doesn’t really resemble fish and is also different from caviar.)

I wish I had more pictures of food, but with my gluten allergy, I usually stick to the same dishes. To all other gluten-free individuals: Sashimi tastes just as good without soy sauce, and with wasabi, as does meat or fried fish! And for those not afraid of traces or small amounts of gluten, anything with cheese on top will make you happy.

Final Thoughts

Great for dinner and/or drinks with friends, family, or dates! There are tables indoors, outdoors, and on semi-open terraces on higher floors, and neither the atmosphere nor the menu get boring, even after several visits! English won’t get you very far (at least it was like that the last times I visited), but hey! It’s worth the adventure!

Total: ★★★★☆ (4.5 out of 5)
Taste: ★★★★☆
Variety: ★★★★★
Price: ★★★☆☆ (3.5)
Interior: ★★★★★
Access: ★★★★★

개화기요정 Gaehwagi Yojeong
Sunday~Thursday 17:00~2:00, Thursday, Friday 17:00~3:00
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Google Maps: 401-5 Seokyo-dong Mapo-gu, Seoul
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